Custom mounting hardware for Givi hard luggage

My setup is extremely sturdy. The 45 liter bags do not sag, even when fully loaded, and the rack actually adds stiffness to the rear of the bike. If I grab the rack and shake it, the entire bike shakes with it. As of this writing, I've ridden about 20,000 miles with fully loaded cases on the bike, and there is no sign of cracking, fatigue, or wear. Not only that, this design allows me to place the cases much closer to the bike's center of gravity than any of the off-shelf Givi mounting kits I have seen; the narrow profile brings the cases as close in as possible and this increases stability as well as reducing the overall width. At high speeds or in strong headwinds my gas mileage does drop.

I can't promise this design will work for everyone, since I can't control other people's workmanship or choice of materials. But it certainly has worked well for me.

The red and white reflective striping on my cases is not stock. I bought rolls of 3M reflective tape at the hardware store and applied it to the smooth plastic strips that run around the case. I've been told that it's highly visible when I ride at night, and it's adhered pretty well except for a six inch strip that I hit with my boot every time I get on or off the bike.

Pictures of my Givi setup, illustrating it from many angles

Materials needed:

• Givi Wingrack. I used model N140 for three cases with integrated taillights. I like the three case model because the two sides of the rack are connected together, enhancing stability. Cost was about $160 from AZ Motorsports.
• Cases. Givi offers a wide selection of cases to fit this rack. Choose up to three to suit your needs. Cost varies depending on what you choose.
• Aluminum flat stock. I used a 1' by 2' sheet, 3/16" thick, about $35 from McMaster Carr.
• Aluminum bar stock. I used scraps found in the machine shop where I did the work.
• Fasteners. All stainless steel fasteners. M8 allen head screws with matching nuts of the type that have nylon collars to keep them from loosening. Washers. I spent about $20 on fasteners. Choose your own lengths based on your design, but I do recommend the stainless steel.
• Scraps of plywood and cardboard.

Directions

• Step 1. Choose three mount points on the bike. Three mount points are better than two because it takes three points to anchor something in a fixed plane. These mount points should not be too close together and should not be in a direct line. Without the need to drill additional holes, I was able to locate four mount points on the V65 Sabre. These are:
  1. The holes where the turn signals used to go.
  2. The holes where the side reflectors used to attach to the rail under the seat.
  3. The holes where the side rails attach to the main part of the frame.
  4. The passenger footpeg carriers offer several holes very close together.
  The first three of these mount points are very close to being in a direct line, but #4 can be used with any two of the others, to meet my design criteria. #3, #1, and #4 would make a very broad triangle, which would be good for strength, but I ruled it out because it seemed to me that #3 is already bearing a lot of stress, and I didn't want to add to it. Also, it would be very tricky to attach to #3; there's nothing flat there to tighten the triangle against. I chose #1, #2, and #4. The above diagram shows the bike mount points in black.

• Step 2. Find ways to bring all three mount points into a flat plane that clears the rest of the bodywork on the bike. The seat rail is recessed, so those two mount points need about 3/4 inch of shimming so the mounting triangle can clear the plastic tail cowling. The footpeg carrier has flat spots on one side or the other of each of the holes, but none of them are at the optimum angle. Also, the footpeg carrier is too far out, so it needs a triangular wedge. (You can see this in some of the pictures on the photos page.) I used a stiff yardstick to compare the plane between my mount points, and chose the footpeg mount that was closest to my desired plane. Remember that the aluminum has some flex, but too much flex will weaken it. This isn't an exact science, so do the best you can.

• Step 3. Determine the dimensions of the triangle created, from center to center of your three mounting points, after the shimming has been done. Mine was 16.25 inches from the taillight hole to the footpeg, 12.75 inches from footpeg to reflector, and 4.1 inches from reflector to taillight. There were slight differences, about a tenth of an inch, from one side to the other. Other bikes may have even more differences, so don't forget to measure both sides. Even if you have a V65 Sabre, don't just take my word for these measurements. Measure your own bike.

• Step 4. Determine the dimensions of the triangle created by the three mounting holes on the Givi Wingrack. Even though your Wingrack should match mine exactly, I'd prefer you make your own measurements here, too, so I'm not going to give you the exact measurements. My measurements were approximately 7" x 5" by 9". This triangle is shown in red.

• Step 5. Draw the three bike mount points on a piece of cardboard and cut it out. Hold it against the bike to check the accuracy of your measurements.

• Step 6. Draw the three bike mount points on a piece of plywood, and cut a piece large enough for all likely rack mount points. Bolt it to the bike. Put one of your side cases on the piece of the Wingrack that has the mounting spots. Hold the case against the plywood and figure out where you want it placed. Note that the Wingrack cannot be slid into just any spot; there are structural braces on the backside of it and the screws can interfere with them in certain positions. Pick a spot where this doesn't happen. Mark where the Wingrack should go. Take the plywood off the bike and drill holes in it for the Wingrack. Cut the plywood down to size, leaving one to two inches outside the triangles for strength. Make plywood pieces for both sides, and bolt them to the bike. Bolt on all the pieces of the Wingracks, and put the cases on. Roll the bike around the shop. Sit on it. Bounce up and down. Get your favorite passenger to climb up behind you, and bounce up and down. Make sure you're happy with the placement of the cases, that they don't interfere with the rear brake when the suspension travels, that they aren't too close to the exhaust, that they don't interfere with your passenger's feet or press uncomfortably against their butt.

• Step 7. Take it apart again. Cut the margins down even further. Draw nice, esthetically pleasing outside edges, but try to keep at least 3/4 inch of material outside the edges of the holes.

• Step 8. Duplicate your plywood mockups in aluminum.

• Step 9. Bolt it all together and go.

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